The John Lobb factory is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the 1600s. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the traditional production process developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For instance, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife striking the cutting table. With feather knives, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is carefully restricted, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from young French calf hides. Only slightly more than half of the leather is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The range combines heritage designs with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah shoes, which are released each season in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb stands as one of the pillars in the British footwear industry.
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